
I wanted to make something for Heather that I have not made yet, a lined coat or jacket. She selected this pattern about a month ago for me to purchase when we were at JoAnn's.
I could tell Heather wanted to have an outfit in the same fabric of my dress that I made just recently. She did not have to tell me directly.



This is officially the first lined jacket I sewed for Heather. I originally intended to give this to her gift wrapped for Christmas. Instead this became the "early" present. I wanted to have her try it on to determine how it fits her.
Pattern Description
From the Project Runway series: "Child's and Girls' coat jacket and hat". My description for this pattern: Girls' coat jackets with front and back yoke, double breasted feature and length and sleeve variations.
The pattern includes the croquis or sketch feature that allows you to select which design element such as the length of sleeves (long or three-quarters) along with the type of sleeve finishing (vertical tab and button, ruffled, band with button at end). I prefer the traditional way of patterns showing several views (A, B, C, etc) each with their unique design features already incorporated, while still having the flexibility to morph design features from two or more views. I found it a somewhat inconvenient to have cutting layouts separate for each design element instead of typically showing all the pattern pieces for a particular style.
Size
Girls' 3-4-5-6. I sewed a size 6 for my 5 y.o. daughter.
Fabric
Printed cotton twill with some stretch from the Fashion Fabrics Club.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, for the most part, except for the vibrant fabric I used.
Favorite Features
* Pea coat style
* Pleated front and back
* Front and back yokes
* Sleeve variations: I sewed the three-quarter length sleeved version with a ruffled band or cuff on the bottom. In fact the cuff was really not ruffled. It really consists of 4 pleats made opposite the seam of the band.
Other Issues
* Directions for the lining are sparse. Some day soon I plan to study and use methods suggested by our fellow PRs instead of the simple version of "bagging the lining".
* I become apprehensive when attaching the upper collar to the lower collar (in the process of lining the jacket), at the large dots that transition to the neck seam and the front facing. I had to pay closer attention while pivoting at the large dots where the collar joins the neck seam. Yes, I confess, I am all to familiar with the bunching or puffiness of the collar at the neck seam!
Directions
*Overall they were sufficient and the illustrations were easy to decipher (except for the section on attaching the lining). It helps to read through the directions, noting the boldface titles of the design elements of interest (i.e. "...for coat", ".... for jacket,","long sleeves and sleeve tab", "three-quarter length sleeves") and following those steps. Otherwise, the steps apply to all of the given styles (i.e. "continue as follows for any coat or jacket").
*A note of CAUTION on making the pleats: make them from the correct or right side of the fabric. Oops! I did the front and back sections from the wrong side of the fabric (where I marked the pleats. But overall, such goof did not affect the overall style of the jacket. In fact, I like the way the back looks where the there is a center fold, flanked by a pleat. Otherwise, there would be an inverted-looking pleat at the center.
*The lining is constructed the same way as the outside of the jacket in terms of the back and yoke back except that the front consists of the front facings each to be attached to front lining piece. I had to take out two pleats so that the back yoke lining (cut on the bias) would not extend much beyond the span of the upper edge of the lower back.
* The directions for attaching the lining to the coat/jacket were sparse. The illustrations for adding the lining were unclear and insufficient.
* There seemed to be an error in the illustration showing the edge of the front facing being stitched horizontally, 1 1/2" from the lowest edge of the jacket. It was supposed to show the front facing, interfaced side up, right sides together with the front edge
*After the first fitting, my daughter felt constricted at the neck area (She does not like feeling constricted. Pullover sweaters are not her cups of tea. She's been like this since she born. I recall so vividly when she constantly freed herself from her blanket, arms and hands pop out, after being bundled for warmth and security). The space between the two ends of the collar, the front segment of the neckline, seemed to be a tad narrower in relation to the corresponding portions of the jackets on the pattern envelope. I could have used a smaller seam allowance when attaching the front facings, but details like this and more would be discovered after sewing the first version of this pattern. To lessen the constriction around my daughter's neck, I marked the points for the hidden snaps about a centimeter towards the center, thus making the yoke at the closure area a little off-center.
Modifications
*Used hidden snaps. I might revert to buttonholes. Heather had some difficulty aligning and securing the snaps.
*Used wild fabric

Conclusion
I recommend this pattern for a stylish coat or jacket for the little ladies you know. Since I am not a "speedy" sewist and tend to "overthink" things, I spent well over 10 hours on Heather's jacket. All the time and work are worth it to get a big hug and lots of smiles!
















































